jphi

Concernant le taux d’alcool, voici ce qu’il dit :

« I have never tasted such powerful and concentrated Médocs. This is where the Cabernet Sauvignons shine. Reports of excessive alcohol are, for the most part, absurd. Most of the Médocs are certainly higher in alcohol than the 2005s, 2003s, or 2000s, but the 2009s tend to range from 13.3% to 13.8%, with a few surpassing 14%. There were some lots of Merlot that exceeded 14%, but once the blend was done, virtually everything in the Médoc fell between 13% and 14% alcohol. »

Sur le site de Bob … 😉

Jean-Philippe

Voici la vision du millésime 2009 à Bordeaux par Neil Martin que je trouve particulièrement intéressante (comme souvent en fait).

So, after tasting hundreds of wines, is the 2009 all it was cracked up to be?
The answer is: in parts.

In terms of consistency, the 2009 falls far short of 2005. This was made clear upon my first visits, when I asked whether the benign growing season had homogenized the quality of terroir?
On the contrary, every winemaker, every chef de culture that I asked, replied that the growing season accentuated the differences. The reasons for that can be traced back to the details in Blatch’s growing season report: the disparity in bud-burst between the cold and warmer soils subsequently exacerbated by the lack of moisture. The propitiousness of a vineyard is governed by its ability to drain when there is too much water and succour the vine from reserves when there is too little. The 2009 tested this paradox like no other, thereby elevating the great terroirs both inter- and intra-châteaux.
I have heard reports that the Deuxième Vins are great in 2009.
I disagree, for the very reasons I have stated above. Certainly, they are better than they were ten- of fifteen-years ago due to more draconian de-selection, but 2009 was not a vintage that elevated the quality of entire vineyards.
I have heard disparaging remarks about alcohol levels: anything over 14% deemed a pariah of the vintage.

To a certain extent, but it is far more complicated than that. Can you perceive the alcohol or did you make your mind up after the winemaker came clean? In some wines I could discern the alcohol and in others it was impossible. Much of that depended upon the acidity/pH level and the style of wine produced. I would rather have a fresh wine with higher alcohol than a dull one at lower. It varies from estate to estate, which is why I will go into great detail upon the specifics of as many wines as possible.

My greatest criticism for the 2009 vintage centres upon estates that missed an open goal, where they mishandled their “perfect” fruit through late picking, excessive skin maceration or fermentation at too higher temperature. In discussions with the winemakers, it was a common feature to find that the best wines were fermented 3-4 degrees below average for a shorter period. Those that did not tended to find their wine afflicted by prune/stewed apricot aromas dominating their aromatic profiles: a facet that I dislike in Bordeaux. These were often accompanied by hard tannins and dry finishes that were more common at the lower end of the hierarchy than the upper.

This was perhaps the most disappointing feature of the 2009 vintage. I was hoping to promulgate more Cru Bourgeois and Petit Châteaux, but too often I felt that the winemaker was trying too hard to make an impression, as if they had to prove something rather than the wine. This was a year when “less is more” and tasting through flights of smaller châteaux, the well balanced, natural, fresh samples stood out like a sore thumb because they simply offered the palate a sense of relief.

But at the top end, there are a clutch of spectacular, dare I say legendary wines in the making. There were simply a joy to taste: pure, delineated, fresh, silky in texture, achieving that elusive combination of intensity and finesse. Perusing my notes, it is probably the Left Bank that provides the most pleasure, the Cabernets handling the alcohol far better than the more rapid ripening Merlots. I would not single out any particular Appéllation, but I did see a distinct improvement with some of the Margaux wines. Do not dismiss the Right Bank, in particular a clutch of breathtaking Cabernet Franc based Pomerols and Saint Emilions. As I have already mentioned, the satellite Appéllations are more inconsistent than I hoped, but I take pleasure in singling out some of the best wines from Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Blaye, Fronsac, Lussac Saint Emilion and so on.

Jean-Philippe

Pour ceux qui ne le sauraient pas encore, les notes données par Parker et son équipe dans la rubrique Hedonist Gazette ne correspondent en aucun cas à des notes officielles mais à des dégustations hors cadre professionel ç-à-d par exemple dans des restaurants ou diners at home (où on ne recrache pas etc…) .
Lorsqu’il a mis 76 lors d’un diner au clos de Tart 2006, il faut également mentionner qu’il a également ajouté un ? après sa cote. Ses 2 colistiers ( David Schildknecht responsable Bourgogne) et Neil Martin lui ont mis 93 tous les 2 dans le cadre de leur boulot.

Jean-Philippe

Ta boite étant pleine…

Il me reste 3-4 bouteilles de ma caisse de CR Belle Helene d’Ogier 2000. Acheté 70 euros je peux t’en envoyer 1-2 avec 12 euros de frais le livraison en france en sus (je suis belge je sais y a pas de quoi être fier…).

Jean-Philippe

CNP Charvin 2003 ouvert en ce vendredi soir. Belle bouteille que celle-ci. Bien sûr, on n’est pas ici dans l’extravagance de certaines cuvées de CNP mais comme d’habitude dans le registre « old school » (rien de péjoratif en disant cela). Aucun défaut pour moi tout y est en équilibre. Se boit très bien à l’heure actuelle et pour encore qq années.

Jean-Philippe

Bonjour à tous,

Je me suis fait offrir ce livre ce week-end par une maison de vente et intéressante coincidence car il s’agit d’une de mes appellations préférées. Les photos sont magnifiques, l’historique de l’appellation est très fouillé, tous les domaines de l’appellation sont détaillés avec toutes leurs cuvées et leur encépagement (et même les millésimes de certaines cuvées rares et non récurrentes sont renseignés), leur type de vinification etc…
Pour moi un magnifique ouvrage en général et la bible sur cette appellation… Sachez aussi que c’est en anglais par contre…
Voici le premier lien que j’ai trouvée sur google qui en parle un peu.

CNP Wine Book

Bonne semaine,
Jean-Philippe

Pas encore bu de nombreux 2004 à vrai dire jusqu’à présent mais Vieux chateau Certan (et cela est confirmé par de nombreux pros ) « is on a roll » dans les meilleurs vins de son appellation/région depuis 2004.

Jean-Philippe

Thierry Debaisieux écrivait:
——————————————————-
> Pour mettre tout le monde d’accord, je ne vois
> qu’une solution:
> copier une partie de la note du Gigondas qui a eu
> 100/100…
>
> Wine Advocate # 185
> Oct 2009
> Robert Parker 100
> Drink: 2011 – 2026
> « Utterly perfect, the 2007 Gigondas Homides Fides
> is the finest Gigondas I have ever tasted (it is
> first ever to merit a perfect score). The sad news
> is that there are only 250 cases for the
> world… »
>
>
> Cordialement,
> Thierry

Dans l’intitulé du CR il est mentionné Hominis fides et dans le CR en lui même il parle de Homides Fides . Il n’a pas du faire de Latin Bob (ou sa rédactrice)… Il s’agit bien d’Hominis fides.

Bonne journée,
Jean-Philippe

Vient de jeter un oeil aux notes de notre amateur de CNP (un homme qui a du goût…;) )

Et sur les 724 (!!) Rhone sud 2007 dégustés il y en a « seulement » 48 qui ont une cote supérieure à 95, je trouve que ça va encore…
Quand on voit les notes en 2008, on n’est plus du tout dans le même registre de cotation.

Content aussi pour gigondas qui décroche son 1er 100/100 …

Jean-Philippe